The field of RC has several different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of several areas I’ve set my sights on mastering will be the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. And once 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I needed to scoop one up to see what every one of the hoopla was using this drifter.
WHO MAKES IT: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for quick learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning in front of the motor or on the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Lots of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips away from the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit opting for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very affordable price. Handling is useful also as soon as you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it also accepts a really wide variety of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who love to tinker, which means that this car should grow together with you for your skills do.
The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts at the base for your front and back diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. The majority of these are used for mounting things such as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a number of left empty. They could be used to control chassis flex, however, not together with the stock top deck; an optional you have to be obtained. The design is comparable to a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the rear bulkhead/ suspension. Everything is easy to access and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.
? Aside from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to boost them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to handle camber and roll as the front uses a fascinating, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This product allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and permits some extreme camber settings.
? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious volume of steering throw they have. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so that as near the edges of the chassis as possible. This produces a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I needed a good servo to keep up with the continual countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, in which the front and back belts meet. Pulleys retain the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power on the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow the use of a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how to paint it, however i do remember an approach I used quite some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I like the very last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m an incredibly impatient painter!
About The TRACK
For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to do a picture shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and have some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from any parts. Even the CVD’s can change that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does an amazing job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This can be, to some extent, thanks to the awesome handling in the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, you are able to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I discovered Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to alter the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Increase throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Starting to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit along with the D4 would get back in line. It’s all an issue of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is designed for just that. I did so need to be just a little creative with the install in the system due to small space in the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for quite a while, it does have a little becoming accustomed to understanding that an auto losing grip and sliding is the right way round the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you get it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways via a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at below several inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled unmanageable thing, and also the D4 would it wonderfully. The kit setup is nice, but if you believe as if you need more of something anything there’s plenty of what you should adjust. I just enjoyed the vehicle using the kit setup and it also was only a matter of a battery pack or two before I had been swinging the back around the hairpins, round the carousel and backwards and forwards through the chicane. I never had the chance to strap the battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.
There’s little you could do to damage a drift car they’re really not going everything that fast. I have done, however, provide an issue with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the peak deck. Through the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired just a little drag brake. I kept along with it, trying to overcome the problem with driving, but soon had to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it into actually look it over. During the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that is maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square on the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, when the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes in touch with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a longer screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little more. Problem solved.